8: Sleeping in a Sheep Wagon


The detached mass first seen is called the Chimney Rock, a striking landmark in this prairie sea. John Ball, crossing the plains in 1832

When was the last time you slept in a sheep wagon? Has it been far too long? Well, we have the place for you: Barn Anew in Scotts Bluff, Nebraska. This was, and probably will remain, one of our most memorable stays ever.

Scotts Bluff is a rugged rock formation along the North Platte river in Nebraska that welcomed thousands of pioneers as they traveled west along the Oregon trail. Just before reaching the Bluff, the pioneers saw Chimney Rock, which they knew marked the end of the prairie and the beginning of more mountainous travel. Wimps that we are, we complained of our long car ride through Nebraska, and found it difficult to imagine the long, difficult, and painfully slow journey the pioneers made so many years before us.

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Thankfully, we were refreshed and rejuvenated at the Barn Anew. The barn is 100 years old and recently converted into a fantastic bed-and-breakfast inn. The owners, Alan and Cher, spent many years teaching on a nearby Arapaho reservation before retiring to Scotts Bluff.

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Alan and Cher have filled their renovated barn with priceless art and treasures, including this buffalo hide that was hand-painted by a friend using the traditional method of a stick as a paintbrush.

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Other friends adorned clothing with extensive beadwork. Sculptures by Remington, paintings by Western artists, and pen-and-ink drawings by Alan himself fill the walls and shelves.

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Each guest room is impeccably decorated to reflect the time of the great Westward migration. We had the Pony Express room and the California room.

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As comfortable and historic as the barn was, two of us (the hearty ones) opted to spend a night like the old settlers – we slept in a sheep wagon! Alan has collected a few old wagons that shepherds lived in while raising their herds in the area. Alan has painstakingly restored the wagons and installed a cozy bed for those wanting a little adventure. We slept peacefully and were awakened at 5:00am by the sun and the sounds of wildlife around us. Later in the morning, we feasted on a delicious breakfast that included local chokecherry syrup for our French toast.

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Throughout our stay, Alan and Cher regaled us with fantastic stories about their lives in the West. Like the early explorers before them, this couple learned to live the rugged life. They’ve ridden the Oregon trail on horseback — 2,200 miles. Alan has set several records for things like carrying a canoe 65 miles in 18 hours, and traveling 5,600 miles on a jet ski. You get the feeling there is nothing these two can’t do — they were quite an inspiration.

Some of the states we visit are memorable for their natural beauty or historical significance. Our Nebraska memories center around Alan and Cher. As their website boasts: “history comes alive at the Inn on the trail”.

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You’ll never guess what we had for dinner in Scott’s Bluff, Nebraska. Over the years, migrant workers have moved through the area from Mexico, and some stayed and now call Nebraska home. Alan and Cher recommended a Mexican restaurant that was – dare I say it? – better than those we visit in California! Muy delicioso!

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We drove along I-80 and highways 385, 2, 87, 26, 92, 71. As we’ve driven our nations highways, we often noticed the tremendous number of freight trains criss-crossing the country. Ordinarily, I don’t think much about trains, but Bill tells me that freight-train traffic has increased and become very efficient in recent years. We simply have a lot of stuff to move around this country. As efficient as it may be, it was still a bit shocking to see the coal train that pulled past Scotts Bluff each day. We counted 135 cars loaded with coal. Alan told us that each car carries 100 tons of coal, so that’s over 13,500 tons of coal with each train — and the trains come through every 20 minutes around the clock. Ugh. Global warming, anyone?

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Our route took us to Alliance, Nebraska, which we were happy to visit in honor of our friend Geoff, who was born there. Sorry, Geoff, but Alliance has an even bigger claim to fame: Carhenge. For reasons we don’t completely understand, some guy in Nebraska decided to pile old cars on top of each other just like the stones of Stonehenge. Kind of strange, but actually pretty darn funny. Apparently a few years ago, the local authorities wanted to remove this “eye sore” but the good people of Alliance rallied to save the sight!

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Just for fun, here’s a view of the original Stonehenge, which we visited a few years ago.

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8. Nebraska
Chimney Rock